Still Rendering . . .

I’m on my third attempt at rendering a sphere and my rendering has really improved. Most of the time I am able to get a smooth tone on top of the textured lines in the Strathmore paper. My paper is no longer turning to felt from abrasion, and I no longer create visible strokes in the drawing. Here are a few things I’ve learned:

  • Work very slowly, adding charcoal a molecule at a time.
  • Make multiple passes, moving the charcoal in many different directions.
  • Don’t move the charcoal quickly because the hard impact with ridges will leave marks.
  • Keep the stick of charcoal close to perpendicular to the paper so that only the point touches – don’t lay the charcoal on its side.
  • It is essential that you sharpen the charcoal as you go – sometimes every few minutes. You can sometimes sharpen the stick on the paper as you draw by rotating it, but when you hit a soft part of the stick and the point dulls you will need to resort to sandpaper to restore the fine point.
  • Lift off dark flecks of charcoal with a tortillon folded from newsprint or paper towels.
  • Also use the tortillon to smooth out any ridges that appear.
  • Don’t use the tortillon to smudge the charcoal in attempt to get a smooth tone. This will break down the paper and the smudge doesn’t look as good as a hand-rendered tone. The tortillon should only be used to move grains of charcoal from one place to another.
  • Often flaws are more apparent from a distance. I am near sighted and find that if I remove my glasses I can easily spot light and dark patches that I can’t see with focused vision.

My renderings are still a bit sparkly. If you look at them closeup, you will see lots of black dots of charcoal and white patches without charcoal. Some of my classmates in the atelier are able to make their drawings look like airbrush paintings. I still have a ways to go, both in quality, and in rendering speed.

This is a closeup of the sphere, the table it sits on, the core and cast shadows, and the background. My rendering has improved to the point where the charcoal is fairly smooth, even on textured paper.

In this picture you can see the ridges in the paper. My technique has now improved to the point where the charcoal stays smooth across the rigdes and valleys. The lines you are seeing are the shadows cast by the ridges.

Here’s one more view of the ridges in the paper.

 

Cutting Plastic

I’m back at work at the 24″ x 30″ plate for the three pears. Today I transferred the design to a sheet of FPVC and started cutting, first with the jig saw, and then with the Proxxon rotary tool. The FPVC cuts like butter and the edges come out clean, but the material is a bit brittle, so I am being careful with the finer cuts around the stems. The Proxxon kicks up a ton of plastic dust that gets on everything, but it doesn’t seem to be small enough to require a respirator. Once I finish cutting, I will probably use a file or an emory board to clean up the edges an then I will glue the pieces to another sheet of FPVC to complete the plate. I can’t wait to see how it prints!

I’ve used Richeson graphite transfer paper to copy the pattern to the FPVC. I thought I would have to reenforce the lines with a Sharpie, but it turns out the FPVC takes the graphite very well.

I roughed in the larger shapes with the jigsaw using a 20 TPI blade. Then I switched to the Proxxon rotary tool with a milling bit for precision edgework.

The Proxxon rotary tool makes a lot of plastic dust.

Giant Relief Plate

Call me crazy, but I am working on a 24″ x 30″ version of the three pears. I enlarged a line drawing of the original 5″ x 7″ artwork onto 6 sheets of 11″ x 17″ paper. My plan is to use graphite transfer paper to copy the image to a sheet of FPVC that I picked up at TAP Plastics. I chose FPVC because it is inexpensive and easy to cut. It also has a slightly rough surface that should hold ink well. My plan is to use a jig saw and scroll saw to rough in the shapes and then move to the Dremel tool and then a hand file for the detail work. Once I have cut all of the pieces, I will glue them to another piece of FPVC and then try to print it by hand using a baren. I have no idea if it will work so I am starting with one of my simpler designs. Stay tuned for the next exciting episode!

The pattern for the plate is made up of six pieces of 11″ x 17″ paper.

One More Pear Study

SolarPlate relief print. 8″ x 10″ plate on 12″ x 14″ Hosho. Akua Intaglio Mars Black.

This weekend I finished the final of nine plates from my Less Is More series of black and white notan studies of pumpkins and pears. Your can see the entire collection of prints here.

I’ve reworked the second pear from the left and am still not happy with it, so I might make this plate one more time. If I do this, I will probably thin out the white outline on the right side of the leftmost pear. I really like the rightmost pear – both the shape of its stem and the shadow cast by the second pear.

Busy Weekend

This weekend I finally had a chance to print my new relief plates. Overall I pulled about 25 prints over the course of the evening. For each print I made a test print on newsprint, followed by a proof on Masa, and then a good print on Hosho.

The total includes a number of redos after boo boos. It turns out there are a million ways to mess up a print. It really helps to get a good process that you follow every time to reduce the chance of mistakes. Here is what I do

  • Make sure the roller doesn’t have too much ink.
  • Roll the ink carefully onto the plate in multiple passes and multiple directions.
  • Carefully inspect the plate for areas that don’t have enough ink.
  • Carefully inspect the plate for any dust or hair that may have fallen in the ink.
  • Carefully inspect the plate for drops or splotches of ink in the whites. Remove this ink with paper towels and newsprint tortillons.
  • Wipe ink off the sides of the plate from the bottom.
  • Wipe off any ink that may have made it to the back side of the plate.
  • Wipe off the printing press bed which may have ink from the previous plate.
  • Place the plate on the press bed.
  • Inspect bed for ink from the current plate.
  • Make sure hands are clean!
  • Pick up printing paper. Carefully inspect for dents and blemishes. Decide which side will be printed and which orientation minimizes flaws in the paper.
  • Place paper on plate.
  • Inspect protective cover paper for ink from previous plate.
  • Place protective cover paper over print paper.
  • Carefully place blankets on top of print.
  • Finally, run the print through the press.
  • Remove blankets.
  • Remove protective cover paper.
  • Peek at print and remove.

It sounds like a lot, but after a while you get in a rhythm and things go smoothly. Here are some photos.

Here are my seven brand new relief plates, ready to print.

For these prints, I want perfect contours and clean whites. I try to be very careful not to get any ink in the whites, but a little bit always makes its way on the plate, sometimes because I am rolling too fast with too much ink and other times just because it feels like it. I find it is helpful to fold a newsprint tortillon to wipe up the stray dots of ink.

I may be a perfectionist or I may need more practice rolling ink onto the plate, but currently I spend about 20 minutes per print on inking, detailing, and printing.

This plate has been inked and detailed. It is ready to move to the press. Note that the plate is sitting on top of a magnetic block that holds it up off the table so that I can roll ink all the way to the edges without making a mess.

I’ve placed this plate onto the bed of the printing press. The plate sites on a piece of protective mylar that covers a template that helps me position the paper on top of the plate. The template has markings for the plate and for the two paper sizes I am using.

Lifting an almost perfect impression off the press!

Another great looking print!

A large version of the three pears. This plate has always been hard to ink.

I’ve finished the run and all that remains is cleanup. The large pile of paper scraps is the result of detailing about 25 inked plates.

Another Papercut Value Study

Just finished my second papercut value study for class – this time a still life that I set up in my studio. One of the nifty things about using cut paper is that I was able to try out two different value schemes for the background and the tabletop before gluing everything together.

In the end I decided to go with a dark gray background, a light gray table, and a shimmering pool of pure white light.

Nikki McClure Workshop

This weekend I attended the Nikki McClure workshop at the Bellevue Arts Museum. Nikki is a fantastic instructor and the fourteen students were all very talented. It was great to see a bunch of amazing and inspiring pieces at the end of the day.

Nikki began with a quick history and tour of papercut samples from around the world. It turns out the oldest known papercut is from fifth century China. The art of papercut has spread throughout cultures around the world, but it is especially prevalent in Japan.

Nikki did a demo of her technique and then we tried an exercise cutting a pattern that transitioned from black to white. Nikki’s example was leaves of a bush that started out thick and mostly black at one end and then gradually thinned out to white sky at the other end. I chose to use the reflection of pine trees in a pond for my exercise.

After the exercise, we spent the rest of the morning drawing our ideas for the afternoon project. I brought a lot of reference material, but in the end decided to work from a photograph of a couple crossing a busy street at night during a blizzard in Boston. The picture was challenging to render in just black and white, so I ended up something that was very stylized.

Probably the biggest challenge was getting enough white behind the couple so that some of their silhouettes would show up. Before cutting I did some experiments to see how I could make the headlights spill more white into the scene behind the people. The most promising approach was to add white streaks of snow around the headlights. I didn’t have time for this much cutting during the workshop so I just simplified.

I liked the final result and think that if I have some time to revisit the picture I can make something more faithful to that stormy day.

Papercut Value Study

This week’s assignment is to create a four-level mastercopy value study using cut paper. The goal of the assignment is to learn how to simplify an image and convey three dimensional form with a limited number of values. We use paper cuts instead of paint for two reasons: using paper ensures we don’t cheat by blending some extra shades of gray and the act of cutting discourages elaborate detail.

I chose to do Edward Hopper’s New York Office. The whole project took about nine hours and at one point I felt like I was playing with paper dolls. One big take away is that there are many ways to approach the design and some are better than others for structural and asthetic reasons. After a three hour false start, I realized it is better to layer the paper in the same order as the items in the scene – in other words, the background should be on the paper towards the back and the forground should be on paper towards the front. I also learned that it is often easier to cut holes that reveal the layer underneath than to cut small pieces to glue on top.

It turns out you can still cheat with papercuts by taking advantage of texture and shadows. One can represent subtle tonal changes with compositions of shapes that are all the same color. One can also use shadows between layers with the same color to represent very fine lines.

Meanwhile back at the atelier . . .

You might think that with all of the printmaking and woodworking going on that nothing was happening in the atelier. Au contraire, mon frère – we are all busy learning to render. Rendering in charcoal is a very slow process and learning to render is even slower, so I don’t have a lot to show even though I have been working hard.

Our goal was to learn to render a white sphere lit by a single light source. The easy part was learning what the sphere is supposed to look like – there is actually a lot of nuance in the play of the light and shadow, but you can see it once you know what you are looking for. The really hard part – and the part that takes all of the time is learning to make smooth gradations of gray with charcoal.

You would think this would be easy, but the surface of the paper is actually covered with tiny ridges and valleys, and the ridges tend to pick up charcoal and get darker, while the valleys stay white. This leads to a sparkly look. To get the tone completely smooth requires many many very light passes of charcoal. You need to hit the same spot of paper over and over again in order to break down the paper’s sizing and open up the surface to accept the charcoal. Press too hard, though, and the surface will get too dark before you are able to lay down enough layers to get a smooth tone. And heaven help you if you sneeze.

Musicians practice scales before concertos. As artists, our first rendering exercise is value scales. This scale, which is made of 1″ squares, took me about six hours and it is still a bit sparkly. Must learn patience, grasshopper.

Before rendering spheres, we practice value scales.

After doing value scales on two different types of paper (Strathmore 500 Charcoal and Canson Mi Teintes), I was ready to move on to value studies. Since a fully rendered sphere takes about 30 hours, we really wanted to look before leaping, so each of us made a number of postage stamp value studies. I was able to do these six in about 4 hours.

A carefully rendered sphere can take 30 hours so we do a bunch of value studies first to make sure we will like the outcome.

Finally the big day came and I was ready to embark on the sphere itself. The first step was to get a really good flat white sphere – I used a Christmas ornament, but others have had good success with light bulbs. The sphere is placed in a box that shields it from most stray light so that the shadows stay really clean. It is lit from a single light source which is clamped in place behind my easel. This setup took a lot of careful effort and adjustment, but it was important since the rendering will take 30 hours. In the image below, I’m about 6 hours into rendering and have what Juliette calls a good under painting or ghost image to work from. Now my challenge is to get the charcoal really smooth.

Sphere rendering setup. The blue ear wash bulb is to blow charcoal off the paper. Many a student has learned the hard way never to blow on a charcoal drawing. A single, microscopic drop of spittle can lead to tears.

Of course, the ultimate goal is not to draw spheres – it is to learn to render and turn form so that we can draw the figure, still life arrangements, and landscapes. We continue to draw from a model each morning in the life room and the poses are getting longer and longer. We begin each session with 20 minutes of gestures from a variety of poses, but the remaining two and a half hours are dedicated to a single pose the lasts about a month.  This drawing was from right before the holidays. It was about a three week pose and I probably drew 9 days because I am part time. One challenge for me is that I never get a month long pose because I come in every other day. At some point, later in the year, I may have to switch my schedule so that I draw every morning and then work at Microsoft in the afternoons and evenings. This would give me an entire month on one pose, but I would lose out on the coaching I get in the afternoon studio sessions. Life is full of tradeoffs.

We continue to draw longer and longer poses in the mornings in the life room.

Picture Frame From Hell

I have a piece in Lay of the Land: Student Landscape Exhibition at the Rosen Gallery at Gage Academy. The opening reception is Friday, January 18 from 6pm to 8pm and will feature a reception, lecture, and book signing for Tom Hoffmann’s Watercolor Painting: A Comprehensive Approach to Mastering the Medium. The exhibit runs until February 15th.

My painting looks great, but it was a nightmare to frame. The nightmare started long before I started the painting, when the supply list for a course suggested in error that we bring gesso’d watercolor paper on the first day. It turns out the supply list was for a different course, but I had already spent hours lovingly applying gesso and sanding and I was determined to use the paper. Unfortunately the paper was also metric.

When it came time to frame the piece I had to mount the paper on a board specially cut to the metric dimensions and then I had to jury rig my own float frame because the metric painting wouldn’t fit in a standard-sized frame. Here’s what the entire stack looked like:

It took quite a while to locate and cut all of the pieces, especially the 3/8″ x 1/4″ shims that ensure the floating painting is positioned behind the front of the frame. Then I had to clamp and glue all of the pieces and apply lots of black paint. To look good, the edges of the painting panel had to be black, along with the shims which are visible from the front, and the backing panel which is also visible through the gap between the painting and the frame.

I tried painting first by hand using acrylic paint, but it was glossy and the brush strokes looked horrible. I then sanded it off and switched to flat black spray paint which looked better, but didn’t work well on the unprimed masonite. The masonite just kept absorbing the black paint and getting darker, but it still looked brown. Then after many coats, I got drips in the paint and when I tried to wipe them off with a piece of newsprint, it disintegrated, leaving fibers all over the paint. After lots of painting and sanding and repainting I finally got something that looks pretty good. Then I went over all of the bad miter joints with a fine point black marker and called it a day.

My lessons for the future are to use standard size supports for my paintings (which would have allowed me to purchase a ready-made frame) and to use canvas on stretchers (which are trivial to float mount, compared to watercolor paper).